Istanbul To Bishkek (74 Days) Turkey, Caucusus & The Stans

Days 1
Istanbul
Our trip starts in Istanbul. Today a modern metropolis and one of the world's liveliest cities, it is a place full of history and rich in culture. Our first day is free, which you can choose to spend visiting one of the many famous sights such as the iconic Hagia Sophia and stunning Blue Mosque, or strolling around the Grand Bazaar on the lookout for some bargains. During the evening be sure to try some of the wonderful local cuisine, such as authentic kebabs, baklava or any of the many other treats on offer.

Many of our travellers starting their trips in Istanbul choose to arrive early to make the most out of the city. Please note that if your trip takes you further across Asia you may need to arrive in time to pick up some visas. If you are thinking of doing this, be aware that consulates are closed at weekends.

Days 2 - 10
Istanbul to Cappadocia
Leaving Istanbul, we embark on a half day drive through olive groves and rural settlements to Gallipoli and the Straits of the Dardanelles. In World War I, on this blustery and exposed peninsula, ANZAC and British Forces struggled unsuccessfully for nine horrendous months to dislodge Turkish troops from the hills above the beaches. It is a moving experience to visit the war graves and battlegrounds where so much suffering and unnecessary loss of life took place.

We then follow the Mediterranean coast south, past the ancient site of Troy, and drive to Ephesus. Built by the Greeks a thousand years before Christ and then rebuilt by the Romans, this immense ancient city boasts an amphitheatre that can seat 24000 and a harbour with no water - still in good condition after all these years. Reaching Selcuk we then drive inland towards Pamukkale where we see the strange stepped calcium travertines, and you can swim in warm, mineral-rich waters.

Our next stop is Cappadocia, where we stay for a few nights. Here, over the centuries, houses, churches, fortresses and even underground cities have been carved into this eerily eroded volcanic rock. The Goreme Valley provides us with an astonishing setting in which to spend a few days investigating the region. Why not take in the scenery from the skies in a Hot Air Balloon flight (optional). We will take you to one of the underground cities where you can explore alone or with a guide this ancient and mysterious area!

Days 11 - 20
Cappadocia to the Black Sea and Tbilisi
After a busy few days in Goreme we again hit the road to cover some more miles as we travel towards Georgia. Crossing rural Turkey, we head towards the Black Sea before following the coast east. This captures the essence of an overland adventure expedition, as we stop for bush camps in the evening and are able to watch as the stunning and varied scenery of this rarely-visited part of the country rolls past, stopping off to meet locals and buy food and drinks as we go. En-route we will stop to visit the incredible setting of Sumela monastery which clings to a sheer cliff, high above evergreen forests.

Our first destination in Georgia is the port city of Batumi. Here we spend some time to check out the city with its modern and often bizarre architecture and enjoy our first taste of Georgia's famous warm hospitality. A walk along the waterfront promenade is always popular, especially at night when the buildings are lit up in bright neon colours.

We spend the next two days exploring the Svaneti region. This mountainous area is beautiful and untamed, and offer fantastic hiking options with the mighty Caucasus mountain range as a stunning backdrop. Using our overland truck as our base we will bush camp and spend some time travelling around, including a visit to Mestia, a pretty small town that forms the centre of the region. Weather and climate can be unpredictable so this part of the trip is kept quite loose to allow for itinerary changes, depending on what is our best option at the time, but with the truck carrying all of our camping and cooking gear we are free to travel almost anywhere!

Returning to civilisation following our time in rural Georgia we visit Kutaisi¸ the country's second largest city and home to a buzzing fruit and vegetable market where you can barter for goods with the local traders. Kutaisi offers a glimpse of what modern day life in urban Georgia is like, and the real joy of the city is found in simply wandering the streets and observing the locals go about their routine. We’ll also stop to see the Prometheus Cave and if time allows, to see the dinosaur footprints at Sataplia.

We then travel east towards the capital to Georgia, Tbilisi. On the way we visit Gori the birthplace of Georgia's most infamous son, Josef Stalin and we have time to visit the museum dedicated to him which is built alongside the house where he was born, which still stands today. Here you will find many items from Stalin's reign, and also his bullet-proof train carriage, in which he travelled across the Soviet Union. There may also be the chance to stop at Uplistsikhe, an ancient cave city built into the mountains not far from Tbilisi. Dating from the early Iron Age, this historic site says much about Georgia's long and often turbulent past at the crossroads of a number of might empires throughout the centuries.

We arrive in Tbilisi where we spend a couple of days, and there is no shortage of things to do. There are countless bars and restaurants offering tasty local dishes and Georgian wine, and exploring the Old Town you are rewarded with a huge range of bohemian-style buildings housing anything from private homes through to art galleries. There is a famous flea market, which sells items as diverse as household furniture to Soviet-era memorabilia, and a number of different museums to check out.

Days 21 - 22
Tbilisi
The Old Town of Tbilisi has much to offer. Here you can take a stroll along narrow cobbled streets, past traditional old houses with carved wooden balconies, relax in the warm waters of the historic sulphur baths and visit some of the city’s key historical sites; Metekhi Church, Narikala Fortress, Sioni Cathedral and Anchiskhati Church. If we need to obtain Iran visas, we may pick them up here too.

Days 23 - 29
Tbilisi to Yerevan
Upon leaving Tbilisi our next stop is Telavi, the principal town of the Kakheti region, famous for its vineyards and wineries. Wine has been produced in Georgia since 4000BC and the industry has played a small but significant role in the country's history ever since, as winemaking (and its consumption) has enjoyed an important role in Georgian culture and society. Here we have the option of taking a wine tour to find out more about the history of the area, why wine production has been so important, and of course to try some ourselves!

Telavi itself is a fascinating and relaxing place to spend a couple of nights with many good restaurants and cafes, and not far from the town there are other sites well worth a visit, such as the monastery of Akhali Shuamta, and the small village of Ikalta and its Church of the Transfiguration which dates from the 8th Century BC.

After departing Telavi we cross the border to Armenia and carry on to the ancient town of Dilijan, famous for its hiking, food and arts. We should have time for a day hike here before will head to high altitude Lake Sevan with the possibility to visit the Hayravank Monastery that overlooks the lake.

Leaving the Lake Sevan area, we make our way via the Geghard Monastery and Garni Temple to one of the oldest continually inhabited cities in the world that is Yerevan where we will be based for the next couple of days and where there is plenty to see and do.

Days 30 - 31
Yerevan to Iran or Azerbaijan
From Yerevan we head south to Tatev, which at 5.7km long, hosts the longest cable tramway in the world; the "Wings of Tatev", that whisks you up into the mountains where there are lots of additional activities to take part in.

Important Note: From Tatev, our journey will either head north, towards the border into Azerbaijan. Or, head south to the border with Iran. Both routes come together again in Ashgabat in Turkmenistan. Which we take will depend on the current situation with regard to border closures, Caspian Sea ferry operations, and regional security issues. We will make a final decision on which route we will take a couple of months before each trip departs.

Days 32 - 40
Iran – Tabriz to Esfahan OR Azerbaijan - Sheki to Baku
Iran route: After crossing into in Iran our first stop will be in Tabriz, where we can explore its impressive Grand Bazaar. We’ll then continue east towards the capital Tehran. This is a friendly city, and we can visit the Golestan Palace, several excellent museums, and in the evening perhaps take a walk up from Darband where there are many restaurants and cafes either side of the river which forms the start of the hiking trail up to Mount Tochal.
From Iran we head south towards Kashan, famous for Persian ceramics, and woollen & silk carpets. Then we arrive in Esfahan, for many the highlight of their travels through Iran. Exploring the huge main square, bazaars, beautifully mosaiced mosques, and the famous bridges will take up a couple of days here.

Azerbaijan route: On arrival in Azerbaijan we get to visit the 18th Century UNESCO town of Sheki and continue on to the picturesque ancient village of Lahich with its copper beaters and ancient crafts. Heading south we visit the mud volcanoes of Qobustan before arriving in the capital of Azerbaijan, Baku. Baku has an amazing blend of the old city and the ultra-modern and is fascinating to explore.
Leaving Baku we head to the ferry port for our crossing of the Caspian Sea to Turkmenistan. Ferry schedules are notoriously unreliable and unpredictable and we may need to wait for a day or two (or more) for the next ferry to fill up and depart. The crossing takes approximately 18 hours.

Days 41 - 45
Continue to Ashgabat
Iran route: We will leave Esfahan and head East towards Mashhad. Our route is flexible, and may include stops to explore the Morteza Ali Canyon, and the old adobe village of Esfahak, destroyed by the big earthquake in 1978. In Mashhad, the holiest city in Iran, we can see the Imam Reza Shrine, where the eighth Shia Imam, Ali al-Rida is buried. From Mashhad we head north and cross into Turkmenistan and drive straight to the capital, Ashgabat.

Azerbaijan route: After crossing the Caspian Sea we arrive in our next country, Turkmenistan. On arrival in Turkmenbashi, we will be collected by off road jeeps and head off for our desert adventure. This will be a truly unique experience as we get to visit the Yangikala Canyons via the Balkan Mountains, then on past the white cliffs of Koymat, and along the banks of the dried up Uzboy River before reaching the desert settlement of Melegoch. We will pass several traditional villages on the way before setting up camp near the dunes of Melegoch. Much of this trip will be off road, and totally remote and will truly be a new experience. Finally, we head towards Ashgabat and arrive at our hotel for a well-earned rest!

Days 46
Ashgabat
We have some free time and enjoy a city tour of Ashgabat. Turkmenistan’s capital, founded in the 1880s by the Russian Tsarist government, sits between the foothills of the Koptedag mountains to the south, and the vast Karakum Desert to the north. The city was almost entirely destroyed following an earthquake in 1948 and rebuilt in the Soviet style. Following independence in 1991 the city has been transformed into a futuristic, and in many ways bizarre collection of unique structures and wide streets lined with white marble. All cars must by law also be white, and for many travellers, Ashgabat is one of the most mystifying and unusual cities they will ever experience.

On the city tour we visit Independence Park, the Ertogrul Gazi Mozque, the Arch of Neutrality, the Turkmenbashi Mosque Mauasoleum and many other sites throughout the city. There are plenty of fantastic photo opportunities, and we will have the chance to explore some of the markets and meet the locals.

Days 47
Ashgabat
We have some free time and enjoy a city tour of Ashgabat. Turkmenistan’s capital, founded in the 1880s by the Russian Tsarist government, sits between the foothills of the Koptedag mountains to the south, and the vast Karakum Desert to the north. The city was almost entirely destroyed following an earthquake in 1948 and rebuilt in the Soviet style. Following independence in 1991 the city has been transformed into a futuristic, and in many ways bizarre collection of unique structures and wide streets lined with white marble. All cars must by law also be white, and for many travellers, Ashgabat is one of the most mystifying and unusual cities they will ever experience.

On the city tour we visit Independence Park, the Ertogrul Gazi Mozque, the Arch of Neutrality, the Turkmenbashi Mosque Mauasoleum and many other sites throughout the city. There are plenty of fantastic photo opportunities, and we will have the chance to explore some of the markets and meet the locals.

Days 48 - 49
Ashgabat to Kunye Urgench
From Ashgabat there is a long desert crossing as we drive north through the harsh Kara-Kum Desert, a sparsely-populated and remote expanse. We veer off the highway and do some off-roading as we cross the dunes to the Darwaza Gas Crater. Also known as the ‘Door to Hell’ or ‘Gates of Hell’, this remarkable sight is the result of a Soviet-era gas exploration accident, when the ground beneath a drilling rig gave way and to prevent poisonous gas leaking out it was decided to burn it off. Originally engineers believed it would all be burned in a few days, but that was in 1971 and the field is still burning to this day. The result is a sight quite like no other as we are able to peer down into the crater and see the fire, and feel the intense heat coming from the flames. Conditions permitting we will get to the crater in the truck and bush camp nearby in the remote desert.

Rising early the next morning we leave Darwaza and return to the highway as we continue north to Kunye Urgench, an ancient Silk Road town that was abandoned in the early 1700s and has been left largely untouched since. The old ruins of the town are a UNESCO World Heritage Site, and the most striking sight is undoubtedly the 60-metre high minaret, that dates from the 11th Century. It is said that when Genghis Khan’s Mongol army invaded this area that the infamous warlord was so impressed by the minaret he ordered for it to not be destroyed!

Days 50 - 54
Kunye Urgench to Bukhara
We cross the border to Uzbekistan. Road conditions permitting, we will drive to the edge of where the Aral Sea used to lie. In the 1960s the Soviet Union began an intense irrigation project to boost cotton growth in the region using the then vast sea as its source. The project has led to the sea now shrinking to just 10% of its original size and today as we reach where its edge formerly was, we can see ships sitting incongruously in the middle of what is now a huge desert where we camp for the night.

Continuing further into Uzbekistan, we find well preserved relics from the time when Asia was a centre of empire, learning, and trade along the famous Silk Road. Some of its cities have abundant old architecture, mosques and minarets cloaked with the mystery of the orient dating back thousands of years.

Our first city stop is in Khiva, one of the most noteworthy of the cities and towns of Central Asia. It is a unique monument town, completely preserved in the cultural style of the region, and is a World Heritage Site for its historical significance. It has more minarets than any other place in Asia, and the Juma Mosque, which has an amazing 218 ornate carved wooden columns, is another of the main attractions. We will spend at least a couple of nights here to explore the ancient madrassas, medinas, mausoleums and museums and soak up the unique atmosphere.

Continuing south, we bush camp out in the desert before reaching another town with much historical influence that was also on the great Silk Road.

Days 55 - 58
Bukhara to Samarkand
The name Bukhara is synonymous with the Silk Road, and its name conjures up images of Marco Polo, trading caravans and exploration. The British explorer Alexander Burnes, one of the iconic figures of the Victorian-era ‘Great Game’ was nicknamed ‘Burnes of Bukhara’.

The city is situated on a sacred hill and was founded in the 13th century BC; a centre of learning throughout much of its history, it is home to over 350 mosques and some 100 Islamic colleges. It is an attractive city with narrow streets, green parks and gardens that are a pleasure to wander around and there will be the opportunity for a bout of good-humoured haggling in the bazaar.

The Kyzylkum Desert is about 300,000 sq km and lies between the Syr Darya and the Amu Darya rivers. This is a vast arid plain with a number of isolated bare mountains rising to 900 metres and we journey across it on our way to Samarkand. Scheduled permitting, we may opt to take one of Uzbekistan’s famous bullet trains, and rejoin the truck on arrival.

Samarkand itself is the second largest city in Uzbekistan. It dates back 2,500 years, making it as old as Babylon or Rome. Here we have a couple of days to explore the splendid architecture such as the 15th century Bibi-Khanum Mosque which when it was built was considered to have the largest dome in the Muslim world. Today it stands next a noisy and colourful Oriental market. No trip here is complete without a wander around the three edifices of the Registan, once Medieval Samarkand's commercial plaza and today quite possibly the most awesome sight in Central Asia.

Days 59 - 63
Samarkand to the Fann Mountains and Dushanbe
From Samarkand we head east and cross the border into Tajikistan before climbing up into the Fann Mountains, one of Tajikistan's great ranges (the other being the Pamirs). Peaks of over 5000 mtrs tower above as we head to Iskanderkul Lake at 2200 mtrs. It is said to be the resting place of Alexander the Greats horse, Bucephalus. The glacial lake is a stunning spot for a hike and we aim to visit Tajikistan's highest waterfall (40 mtrs). We will also have more time for hikes in the Fann Mountains before descending to Dushanbe.

Dushanbe is Tajikistan’s largest city, and aptly its name means “Money” in Tajik language. It’s a big showy entry to the country, in stark contrast to the East. You’ll pass a lovely day strolling through parks, admiring the fountains and the wide boulevards punctuated with grand buildings. Visit “Flag Pole Park” or the bazaar, or make the most of being in a city with restaurants specialising in various different cuisines.

Days 64 - 71
Dushanbe to the Pamir Highway and Osh
The next 8 days or so are spent on a spectacular (and slow at times) drive through the mountains, following one of the world’s most famous and scenic roads, the Pamir Highway. After obtaining any permissions we need in Dushanbe, we start by heading south through lowland hills and pastures to the Nurek Dam and on to Kulob. We then cross the Shurobod Pass before arriving at Kalai Khumb. There are great mountain views from the Karon archaeological site here, and the Afghanistan border is just a few hundred metres away across the Panj River. We follow the river, and the border, for some time before reaching Khorog, the capital of the mountainous Badakshan region. We can visit the bazaar and botanical gardens here.

From Khorog we head east again, climbing significantly now, to Murghab, an important Soviet military station in years gone by but now mainly home to Kyrgyz inhabitants. There is a market here and yak-wool handicrafts are available. The highest point of the Pamir Highway comes next, as we cross the Akbaital Pass at 4,655m on our way to Karakul Lake. The heat around Dushanbe is in the distant past now, and these are a cold and remote few days. The air is noticeably thinner, but we have ascended gradually to take account of the altitude gain. We’ll cross the border into Kyrgyzstan next and descend to our next bush camp near Sary Moghul. We should have time for more hikes here or a drive up to see some more mountain lakes. Then it is time to descend out of the mountains to Osh.

Days 72 - 74
Osh to Bishkek
Osh is Kyrgyzstan’s second biggest and the country's oldest, city. Make sure you visit the bazaar, which has occupied the same spot for over 2000 years and used to be a major stop along the ancient Silk Road. After some time relaxing here after our mountain drive, we drive north through more beautiful mountain scenery and past the turquoise waters of Toktogul Reservoir, before arriving in the capital city of Bishkek.