Cycling Kerala's Backroads

We arrive in Kochi (formerly known as Cochin), a vibrant seaport town that is the perfect jumping off point for our exploration of Kerala. As the airport is more than an hour’s drive from the city centre, we stay near the airport, so we can ride straight from the hotel in the morning.

After breakfast, we ride into the countryside, passing a temple, crossing the Periyar River, where, if we are lucky, we see elephants from a nearby camp bathing. We are on the slopes of the Western Ghats mountain range heading towards the Thatekkad Bird Sanctuary, home to rare birds like the crimson-throated barbet, black winged Kite, hornbill, ceylon frogmouth, rose-billed Roller, and blue-winged parakeet, to name but a few. We overnight in unique house tents that have peaceful views of the Periyar River.



Ride: 66km

Elevation: +1146m

Descent: -1123m

Bird watchers will want to rise early to see how many bird species they can check off before breakfast. Riding from the hotel, we follow the Periyar River. The gradually rising trail winds its way through rubber and pineapple plantations to the Valara forest reserve, passing waterfalls along the way. We continue our gradual climb towards our lunch stop at a local restaurant. The afternoon is still up, as we climb a total of 1314 m into the hills, branching off onto an old estate road to our plantation bungalow nestled amongst cardamom estates, the main crop at this elevation. Those with energy to burn can explore the rest of the valley and then freewheel it back to the bungalow.



Ride: 52km

Elevation: +1314m

Descent: -368m

A 31-km morning climb of about 668 m in elevation takes us up to Munnar Hill Station. Located on the slopes of the Western Ghats at about 1,600 m above sea level, Munnar is situated at the confluence of three mountain streams -- Mudrapuzha, Nallathanni, and Kundala. There are lakes, reservoirs, forests, and several tea plantations carpeting the hillsides. After the hard work of climbing, we arrive in the early afternoon with enough free time, perhaps, to cycle 8 km to town if you want to take in the bazaar.



Ride: 20km

Elevation: +668m

Descent: -260m

Overlooking the town, Annamali peak at 1980 m is the highest mountain in Kerala and well worth the ride to Top Station (1,950 m) for the fine views over the town and neighbouring Tamil Nadu. The 681 m ascent is gradual with little traffic. The views are worth the effort. After lunch in a restaurant at the summit, there’s the reward of the downhill back!



Ride: 84km

Elevation: +1791m

Descent: -1811m

Today's ride is stunning, as we ride out of Munnar on an undulating country road that takes us through small villages with wonderful views of reservoirs and streams to Kattapana town. After lunch, it's just a short ride to our tranquil resort set among a plantation of a wide varieties of spices, such as cardamom, pepper, clove, nutmeg, ginger, and cinnamon. We’ll take a guided walk around the grounds to learn about the various spices.



Ride: 86km

Elevation: +1911m

Descent: -2211m

It is an easy morning ride to Periyar National Park. Snuggled in the Western Ghats, it is one of the world's richest bio-diversity spots, a fascinating natural wildlife sanctuary with more than 40 tigers in residence and many elephant herds. We ride on small roads through deciduous forests and try to catch glimpses of some of the native animals on our way to our resort at the edge of the park. For those who like to shop, there are a few curio shops and art galleries in this hip little town.



Ride: 25km

Elevation: +343m

Descent: -566m

For the free day, relax or go on one of trek or boat safaris to Periyar Park (please book in advance with your guide). Centred around a man-made reservoir, it is possible to see wildlife all year round at the park, although the best time is during the dry season, March to May, when herds of elephants come to the lake to graze by the shore. If you are very lucky, you may even see leopards or tigers coming down to quench their thirst. The park is rated as one of the best wildlife sanctuaries in India for wildlife photography and for bird and tiger watching.

Riding from the hotel, we descend through cardamom and tea estates, stopping to visit the Connemara Tea Factory on the way to Kuttikanam, if tickets are available. This is a very picturesque road, and great views abound. We take a break from the saddle for a traditional lunch at Kuttikanam. After lunch, we continue our undulating ride out of the tea growing area, with a couple of challenging hills, along one of the most scenic roads in Kerala.



Ride: 52km

Elevation: +956m

Descent: -740m

Probably the best ride of the trip, simply stunning views combined with a 22-km descent greet our ride. We travel through rubber and spice plantations as we head to Kottayam, known as the Syrian Christian heartland of Kerala. Here, grand churches dot the landscape, and we break for lunch at Palai to visit St. Thomas Church. Its whitewashed facade and distinct guild ceiling, pre-dates its Portuguese renovation. Relax at our luxury hotel on the shore of India’s second largest lake and enjoy the surroundings.



Ride: 84km

Elevation: +954m

Descent: -2063m

The morning is free for relaxing and enjoying the lake view or for an optional visit to the nearby Kumarakom bird sanctuary. Mid-morning, we board our houseboat for a splendid backwater cruise. The houseboats, converted rice barges, come with a captain, cook and crew; we just sit back, sip long drinks, and watch the world go by.

Mid-morning, we disembark at Alleppey, which is nicknamed the “Venice of the East” for its intricate canal network. Riding along the old canal road, we view some historic buildings and see why it remains the centre for Coir carpets, made from coconut husks, and prawn farming. Taking the beach road north, our ride ends at Fort Cochin and our boutique hotel.



Ride: 60km

Elevation: +438m

Descent: -440m

You can choose an optional morning cycle ride around the back streets of old Cochin, taking in all the major sights of Fort Cochin and Jew Town, before ending at Chinese Fishing Nets, a stone’s throws from our hotel. With a rich background influenced by the Arabs, British, Chinese, Dutch, and Portuguese, there is much to explore by bike, from the bazaars and the old harbour area of the town to the Dutch Palace, Santa Cruz Basilica, Vasco House, or the synagogue, built in 1568 for the Jewish members of Cochin's trading communities, adorned with hand-painted tiles from China and elegant Belgian chandeliers. The afternoon is free to relax at the hotel, poke around the antique and curio shops, or, if you prefer museums, the Museum of Kerala History, Gallery of Contemporary Art, Hill Palace Museum, or Chaithram Art Gallery. And, of course, there are an abundance of shopping and eating opportunities. But save room for our farewell dinner.



Ride: 15km

We go our separate ways for onward travel or to explore more of incredible India.