Peaks of the Balkans Highlights (Self-guided)

We pick you up from Tirana for the two-hour transfer to Shkodra. Here you receive your trip information and have a chance to discuss all the details of your self-guided walk in the Balkans. Afterwards, enjoy a stroll through Tirana's pedestrian area lined with elegant townhouses, a reminder of the city's prestigious past. Immerse yourself in the city’s Italian flair, join the buzz of the bazaar to buy dried fruits and other snacks, or visit Rozafa Castle with its fabulous views and hint of what's to come on your upcoming journey through the Albanian Alps. Choose one of many restaurants for an early dinner, getting a good sleep in preparation for an early start into the mountains.

Transfer from Tirana to Shkodra (90-120mins)
City tour with notes and maps
Accommodation in Shkoder

An early start is followed by a scenic transfer through the Drin Gorges to Koman Lake and ferry (58km/2h). On board, you will see that the picturesque reservoir loops through sheer rock walls and is the most amazing route into the Albanian Alps. The ferry stops several times to pick up local people en route from remote villages before arriving at Fierze (46km/3h). By car you continue further into the highlands of Valbona National Park, stopping for lunch in the town of Bajram Curri. You reach Valbona Valley by early afternoon, a place that is famous for its stone tower houses. This warm-up walk for tomorrow's higher elevations follows a crystal clear stream through ancient beech forests, speckled with wild strawberries. Along the way, keen swimmers can take a dip in an ice-cold river or a secluded small lake.

Walking for the day: 7km, 3h, ?250m ?50m
Transfer by public minibus (06:30 pickup time) or private car to ferry port of Koman (90mins)
Boat ride through the canyons of the Koman Lake (3h)
Transfer from Fierze via Bajram Curri (optional lunch stop) to the trailhead in Valbona (75mins)
Warm-up walk and optional swim (3h)
Accommodation near Valbona Valley

A 50mins drive takes you to the remote village of Cerem. Here you start hiking towards the first border crossing. Enjoy forest fruits, admire colourful flora and breathtaking views of Mount Kolata (2,534m). Reaching the rim of Gashi River canyon, follow a high route through the nature reserve's conifer forest. Here mountain slopes are speckled with small alpine pastures, Balqin being only one of many where you can stop for coffee or raki. Your destination is the glacial-shaped valley of Doberdol (1,750m) where animals graze freely and local people still live in harmony with nature. Staying in simple shepherd huts, swap some of the traditional tourist comforts for traditional warm hospitality. After a home-cooked dinner, relax by the bonfire for a view of the stars and learn more about the region's shepherding lifestyle.

Walking for the day: 16km, 7h, ?1250m ?650m
Transfer from Valbone to Cerem (50mins)
Accommodation in a shepherd hut in Doberdol

Today you start with a steep ascent towards Mount Trekufiri (2,366m). Its peak forms the border triangle where Albania, Kosovo and Montenegro meet at one point and, not surprisingly, provides sweeping views of the borderlands. The blueberry-covered path continues into Montenegro, around Mount Bogicevica (2,374m) and the well hidden Lake Hrid. Here, the waters reflect the mountains perfectly and provide habitat for newts, salamanders and fireflies. The trail continues through dense pine forest towards a hamlet of seasonal huts called katun. As you descend, the settlement of Babino Polje comes into view, where you will be staying in simple but very welcoming mountain huts with fantastic Montenegrin home-cooking to fill your boots.

The Grbaja Valley is one of the most awe-inspiring in the Balkans. A morning transfer past Lake Plav leads into a narrow valley, wedged between the karst towers of Karanfili (2,461m). Arguably one of the most rugged and dramatic peaks in the Prokletije Mountains, it's a dream for many climbers. Ascending through a shaded fairytale beech forest, you reach an alpine meadow enveloped by multiple peaks. The connected ridge trail has several panoramic viewpoints, culminating in the highest two peaks of Mount Popadija and Mount Taljanka (2,056m). A steep descent takes you back onto the shaded forest path and, once back down at the valley floor, there are many traditional inns with cold beers to celebrate your achievements. You are then transferred to a family-run guesthouse in Vusanje, where a stroll to the nearby waterfall is a fitting finale to an exciting day.

Leaving Vusanje, you start walking up the 26km-long glacier-shaped Ropojana Valley. At a karst spring called Oko Skakavice, an ice-cold river is born from melting snow high up in the mountains. Walking past Gjeshtare Lake, a weathered border stone is the only reminder of the once tightly-sealed borders of former communist Albania. Coming through the forest, the mountain terrain opens onto a large alpine meadow speckled with shepherd shacks and an abandoned military post. Trek up to to Peja Pass (1,711m) and then down to Theth, the valley in the heart of the Albanian Alps. Reaching the bottom of the valley, there's a local watering hole where you can ask the owner for a lift to your guesthouse. Alternatively, you may continue along the largely traffic-free 4x4 track into the centre of the village.

A walk through the village and its lush green fields reveals the full extent of Theth. Visit its iconic church and 'lock-in' tower or kulla to learn more about the history of blood feuds and Kanun, local traditional laws. This point also marks the trailhead to Nderlysaj. The path ascends to Grunas Waterfall and drops again to a cliff above the 50m-deep Grunas Canyon. A bridle path leads you along the river to Nderlysaj where you can cool down with a glacial swim. A two hours scenic transfer takes you across Thorja Pass (1,630m) into the Valley of Boge and along Shkodra Lake, followed by another transfer to Tirana. The capital city represents a modern and very different side of Albania to the one you have experienced. Bring your day and Balkan Mountains highlights adventure to a close with dinner and a drink out in the chic Blloku district.

Time permitting, explore the cultural highlights of Tirana. Sip an espresso in one of many charming cafes, or shop for special treats at the lively New Bazaar. To learn more about Albania's communist past, Bunkart 2 and House of Leaves are excellent and only a five minutes' walk away from Tirana’s main Skanderbeg Square. Your Balkans Mountains adventure in Albania ends with a 40mins transfer to the airport.