Summit Climb to Alpamayo – 14 Days

Note 1: We classify the course and climbing as Hard because the altitude of 5686 metres and the steep, tough nature of the hike up to camp while carrying your gear, do make it demanding. The intensive nature of the climbing instruction is also physically demanding. You need to be strong enough to carry a moderate-weight backpack up the steep trail. For the fit, strong and well-acclimatized this is a great, challenging adventure; you should not consider this program unless you have above average fitness and are generally strong.

Note 2: The guide in charge of your climb will be one of our local experienced & professional UIAGM International Mountain Guides.

Note 3: Acclimatisation It is important that you are well acclimatized to the altitude before attempting to climb any peak in the Cordillera Blanca, thus avoiding any potential problems with lack of energy or any altitude-related illnesses when climbing.
Climbing above 5000m is physically demanding, even when the climbing itself is not steep or technical. On this ascent you go from Huaraz (3090m) direct to the Morena Camp (5130m), constituting an altitude gain of 2040 metres in a single day.
It is therefore extremely important that you already be well acclimatized.
We recommend a trek of minimum 4 days or a series of day hikes to above 4500m for acclimatization and extra fitness. Arrive in Huaraz and check in to your hotel. Spend the remainder of the day settling in and acclimating to the higher altitude — 9,843 feet above sea level.

As Laguna Churup (Lake Churup) is situated close to Huaraz, it is one of the more popular locations for day hikes. Drive from Huaraz to Pitec (12,631 feet), passing through the attractive farming settlements of Llupa and Unchus. Steadily trek up a mountain ridge from Pitec to Laguna Churup (14,600 feet) and enjoy the stunning views of the turquoise lake below.

Head north and drive down the broad inter-Andean valley through Callejón de Huaylas (the Santa Valley) to Yungay (8,200 feet) towards the Cordillera Blanca peaks. Continue into the Parque Nacional Huascarán and past the famous turquoise Llanganuco Lakes. Continue onwards and upwards to the Portachuelo de Paso Llanganuco (15,640 feet). Stop to enjoy views of a number of spectacularly high Andean peaks, including Huascarán, Huandoy (20,981 feet), and Chopicalqui (20,817 feet), as well as the Llanganuco Lakes almost a mile below, before descending to Vaquería (11,811 feet). Upon arriving at Vaquería, load your equipment onto donkeys and stretch your legs as you hike your way through Valle Quebrada Huaripampa (Huaripampa Ravine Valley) to your secluded campsite in Valle Quebrada Paria (12,795 feet)

Depending on energy levels today, you’ll have the option to hike up the Quebrada Huaripampa Valley to your camp at Tuctubamba (13,779.5 feet), or to take a detour en route to Tuctubamba and climb up to the top of the Paso Punta Union (Union Point Pass) (15,584 feet). There you’ll have fantastic views of Valle Santa Cruz before heading to your camp at Tuctubamba.

Embark on a steep climb following a rocky trail to the top of the Paso Alto de Pacaraju (15,255 feet). At the pass, there are magnificent views of many peaks, including the towering mountains of Nevado Taulliraju (15,846.5 feet), Chacraraju (20,052.5 feet), and Paria (17,028 feet). Begin the long descent — initially on switchbacks, then on a sweeping path — down through lupin flower-covered hillsides and quenual (a tree species native to higher elevations of the Andes) forests to camp by a small lake, Laguna Huecrococha.

oday’s hike starts with a brief descent, a stream crossing (either by jumping or horseback), and then a gradual incline before ascending more steeply to Paso Tupatupa (14,436 feet). During your hike note the large snow-capped peaks of the Cordillera Blanca, including Pucajirca Norte (19,849 feet), and continue to your camp at the head of a wide valley at Jancapampa (11,811 feet). Enjoy the views of a massive hanging glacier with waterfalls streaming down a broad, horseshoe-shaped wall of granite from hundreds of up in the air.

Start today with a long climb varying in gradation up a forested valley with occasional clearings to the beautiful Laguna Sactaycocha. From here, now amid grassy shrubland, you’ll have a steep climb to the top of the rocky Paso Pucajirca (15,092 feet). On a clear day, the awesome Pucajirca Norte can be seen in all its glory to the southwest.

Descend to Willcapampa (13,123 feet) where you will find local traditional farmhouses and even pass by herds of alpacas before continuing to gently climb in the Quebrada Tayapampa. Rest for the night at Safuna camp (13,780 feet).

Today you will cross two passes. The first is a gradual, grassy ascent to the Paso Mesapata (14,764 feet), followed by a longer trek skirting around swamplands, and then continuing on with a challenging climb to the high and sometimes windy Paso Cara Cara (15,846.5 feet). Enjoy your first sightings of the triple summits of Santa Cruz (29,535 feet) before a 20-minute descent along the pass. Here you’ll spot the beautiful Alpamayo (19,511 feet), and its neighboring peaks Jancarurish and Quitaraju, as well as Laguna Jancarurish directly below. Continue making your way down to Cruce Alpamayo Base Camp, below the majestic mountain of the same name (14,764 feet).

Pack up and leave Alpamayo Base Camp behind and trek over a moraine ridge on a sandy slope and rock slabs to reach a small area of tent platforms at Moraine Camp (16,010 feet). Set up your tent for the night.

Start the day early and follow the rocky route above Moraine Camp for a couple hours up to the ice and moraine. Make your way through a snowy couloir (a steep, narrow gully on a mountainside) that leads to the col (the lowest point of a ridge between two peaks) between Alpamayo and nearby Quitaraju (19,816 feet). This section can sometimes be the most technical and difficult part of the route. After getting to the col, there is a short climb up to reach High Camp (17,388 feet).

Depending on your energy and enthusiasm (and the weather) you’ll choose one of two options for today. Enjoy the stunning view of Alpamayo and its surroundings from High Camp. Snap photos to your heart’s content, and once ready, begin the descent back to Alpamayo Base Camp in Valle Santa Cruz. Or, start the day very early and begin climbing on soft snowy slopes for about an hour. You’ll come to a bergschrund (the crevasse that forms where moving glacier ice separates from the stagnant ice above) at the bottom of the southwest face.

The climb from the southwest face to the summit is steep and technical, with mixed snow and hard ice. Seven or eight pitches (a stop at a belay station) are needed to reach the summit. The first two pitches are on good snow before the incline gets steeper with good ice. The climb to the summit takes about five hours. You’ll descend on the same route, which takes up to seven or eight rappels. Return to sleep at High Camp for the night.

Today return to Alpamayo Base Camp by rappelling 492-656 feet down an ice cliff, where the last hour and a half is on steep and slippery rock. Relax weary muscles, pat yourself on the back, and enjoy the celebration dinner waiting for you at Base Camp!

Continue on the long but easy trek down the Quebrada Santa Cruz to reach Cashapampa. A private van will be waiting there to return you to your hotel in Huaraz.

Optional: Add one day extra to also climb Quitaraju or a reserve bad weather day Climbing Hours: Climbing times are estimated times and based on our average climbing groups from past experience. Some people may be much faster and others slower. Trek Roads: Access roads to and from treks are generally dirt mountain roads (not paved) and in some places can be bumpy. Road travel times are slower than you may expect for the kms travelled. Explore Huaraz at your leisure before making your way to the airport for your return journey home.