Tour Overview
Summit Climb to Alpamayo. Discover Peru’s Cordillera Blanca as you trek, climb; and scramble over snow- and ice-covered moraine rock into the high altitudes of the Andes. Not for the faint of heart; this 14-day itinerary is for the somewhat experienced climber and altogether adventurous spirit. You will begin the climb, approaching the wall and crossing the rimaye. You will advance along the wall, following the French Direct route of 500 m and 70 and 80°, until you reach the pyramidal summit of Alpamayo, at 5947 m of altitude. Here you will have spectacular views of lagoons and snow-capped mountains. Alpamayo mayo is graded 4D. The summit climb is rather more alpine-style climbing in a steep vertical section through ice and snow surfaces. The vertical climb to the summit is about 6 hours and descending back to base camp will be another 3 hours. ...more ...less
Highlights
Itinerary
Day 1 : Drive from Huaraz to trailhead
Location: Huaraz
Accommodation: Camp
Meals Included: Lunch, Dinner
Drive to the trailhead; which begins in the village of Cashapampa (9,000 feet/2,743 meters). This 3 hour drive takes us through beautiful farming communities as you head between the spines of the Cordillera Negra and the Cordillera Blanca. After organizing our burros, you’ll hike with daypacks to Llama Corral (11,500 feet/3,505 meters), where you’ll camp for the night. ...more ...less
Day 2 : Establish Base Camp
Location: Santa Cruz
Accommodation: Camp
Meals Included: Breakfast, Lunch, Dinner
Today you’ll continue trekking past the Santa Cruz Lakes until arriving into the hanging valley that sits beneath Alpamayo. Making our base camp at the treeline, approximately 13,500 feet (4,115 meters).
Day 3 : Load carry to Moraine Camp
Location: Santa Cruz
Accommodation: Camp
Meals Included: Breakfast, Lunch, Dinner
Today you’ll help carry equipment to the moraine camp (16,000 feet/4,877 meters), at the edge of the glacier. After safely storing our gear you’ll return to Base Camp for one of our cook Teo’s famous feasts.
Day 4 : Move to Moraine Camp
Location: Peru
Accommodation: Camp
Meals Included: Breakfast, Lunch, Dinner
Today we move up to moraine camp at 16,000’/4,877m in good time to take in the views from this camp. You’ll eat well this evening in readiness for the summit to come!
Day 5 : Move to Col Camp
Location: Peru
Accommodation: Camp
Meals Included: Breakfast, Lunch, Dinner
Today you’ll make your steps onto the glacier making our move to Col Camp (18,000 feet/5,486 meters). Often one of the most challenging days of the expedition, you’ll be climbing on fissured glacier and moving up as many as three/two-tool ice and neve pitches, whilst managing the weight of your backpacks! Col Camp boasts one of the best views from a high camp in the entire world, the alpenglow lights up the Southwest face.
Day 6 : Summit Alpamayo
Location: Alpamayo
Accommodation: Camp
Meals Included: Breakfast, Lunch, Dinner
Providing you are well acclimatized and strong, today you’ll attempt the summit of Alpamayo (19,512 feet/5,947 meters). The route to the summit has a 1-2 hour approach across a steep glacier before crossing the bergshrund onto the South- West Face. 6-9 pitches (depending on whether we tackle the climb via the Ferrari or Italian Route) of two-tool (55-70 degree) ice and neve take us to just below the summit ridge.
Traditionally, a final hard, steep pitch puts us on top, where in a good year you can straddle the ridge (one foot on each side hanging over 2000+’/610+m faces) and work our way to the ultimate summit.
Rappelling the route to descend, and then return to our high camp.
Day 7 : Return to Huaraz
Location: Huaraz
Meals Included: Breakfast
Moving out from our high camp, traversing down to Cashapampa, where our private transportation will be waiting to take us back to Huaraz. It’s never goodbye, only until the next time!
What's Included
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Accommodation
As detailed in the itinerary.
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Fully Guided
Yes. Qualified and licensed trekking and climbing guides and UIAGM international certified climbing guides
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Meals
All meals and snacks on treks and climbs
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Additional Services
Booking of domestic flight tickets, bus tickets, hotels and guesthouses, Lima transfers and city tours
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Transport
Private trek transport in a well maintained vehicle with careful drivers
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What equipment is included?
Quality international brand tents, Cooking, Dining & bathroom tents, All cooking equipment, kitchen equipment, eating utensils, tables & chairs, Thermorest sleeping mattress
What's Not Included
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Insurance
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Guide Service Fee
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Private Expenses
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International Travel
Check out our Q&As
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What is the maximum group size?
12 People.
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What equipment is included?
Quality international brand tents, Cooking, Dining & bathroom tents, All cooking equipment, kitchen equipment, eating utensils, tables & chairs, Thermorest sleeping mattress
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What is the fitness level required to do this tour?
Note 1: We classify the course and climbing as Hard because the altitude of 5686 metres and the steep, tough nature of the hike up to camp while carrying your gear, do make it demanding. The intensive nature of the climbing instruction is also physically demanding. You need to be strong enough to carry a moderate-weight backpack up the steep trail. For the fit, strong and well-acclimatized this is a great, challenging adventure; you should not consider this program unless you have above average fitness and are generally strong. Note 2: The guide in charge of your climb will be one of our local experienced & professional UIAGM International Mountain Guides. Note 3: Acclimatisation It is important that you are well acclimatized to the altitude before attempting to climb any peak in the Cordillera Blanca, thus avoiding any potential problems with lack of energy or any altitude-related illnesses when climbing. Climbing above 5000m is physically demanding, even when the climbing itself is not steep or technical. On this ascent you go from Huaraz (3,090m) direct to the Moraine Camp (5,130m), constituting an altitude gain of 2040 metres in a single day. It is therefore extremely important that you already be well acclimatized. We recommend a trek of minimum 4 days or a series of day hikes to above 4500m for acclimatization and extra fitness. Arrive in Huaraz and check in to your hotel. Spend the remainder of the day settling in and acclimating to the higher altitude — 9,843 feet above sea level. ...more ...less
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Will there be an escort accompanying this tour?
Yes. Qualified and licensed trekking and climbing guides. UIAGM international certified climbing guides
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Are the local guides on the tour English speaking?
Yes.
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How long has the tour company been trading?
For 3 years
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Will the accommodation included meet local health and safety regulations?
Always
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What documents will I receive before I travel?
This depends on the type of tour you've booked. If there is paperwork to be sent (i.e. domestic flights etc.) we will forward these to you ahead of time.
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Can I join the tour once it has departed?
It can be possible in instances, a lot depends on the type of tour being run and it's accessibility
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Am I contributing to any charity by booking the tour?
We don't fund charities directly but we work with local communities where we can to support them and provide resources whenever possible. We utilise local resources with all of our trips so in that respect you are contributing to the local economy and the welfare of it's people.
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What Ethical Travel credentials does the tour company have?
At Unu Raymi Expeditions; we’ll always keep our commitment to deliver the best customised experience created from your own personal & group requirements. We’ll provide as many available options for planning your ideal trip; operating & incorporating many off-the-beaten path experiences for your trip or expedition. Before your trip begins we’ll work with you to ensure you are fully prepared and ha
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Do you operate a “single share” option and how does it work?
Yes, if you wold like to share facilities with someone this can be organised
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What policies are in place for Covid-19?
We are working with the latest protocols issued by the Ministerio de Salud (Ministry of Health) to ensure our operations are safe and compliant for the future. All hygiene standards that are being developed will be adhered to in compliance with state legislation and protocols.
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What happens if I need to change my holiday date once I’ve booked?
We have the flexibility to alter trips as necessary if there are travel restrictions in place. For all other changes please refer to our terms and conditions.
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Who will be my travelling companions on the tour?
This will depend if you have booked a private or group tour
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Free Date Changes
Unu Raymi Tour Operator & Lodges allows you to make 2 free date changes, as long as the change is made at least 60 days before the start of the tour.
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Transfer as credit to Future Tours
Unu Raymi Tour Operator & Lodges allows you to transfer existing payments to a future tour to avoid cancellation fees if you can't travel and inform unu raymi tour operator & lodges, 60 days before departure.
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Low Deposit
Unu Raymi Tour Operator & Lodges requires a minimum deposit of 20% or the full booking value, whichever is less, with the final balance not due until 44 days before departure.
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Cancellation Policy
We don't charge a cancellation fee, here is a summary of unu raymi tour operator & lodges charges.
Up to 50 days before tour starts: Forfeit 100% of deposit.
Summit Climb to Alpamayo – 7 Days
7 Days Starting and ending in Huaraz, Peru
Visiting: Huaraz, Santa Cruz, Peru, Alpamayo
Tour operator:
Tour code:
Alpamayo7
Guide Type:
Fully Guided
Group size:
2 - 12
Age range:
18-65
Special diets catered:
Vegans, Vegetarians, Gluten & Dairy Free
