Iraq: Babylon & Beyond

The southern city of Basra is the starting point for this extraordinary adventure. The third largest city in the country, close to the border with neighbouring Iran, it lies at the north eastern fringes of the Arabian Peninsula. With the suggested group flight due to arrive this morning, the plan is to take a boat trip this afternoon along the Shatt al-Arab waterway, which lies at the confluence of the iconic biblical rivers of the Tigris and the Euphrates.

Home to a predominantly Shia Muslim population, Basra is Iraq’s main port and today we enjoy a guided tour of the old city. Tracing its origins back to the 7th century, the city played an important role during the Golden Age of Islam and our morning tour begins along the old canal system, adorned with its crumbling Ottoman ‘Shenashil’ houses. Basra’s historic pedigree is steeped in the myths and legends of the Silk Road and the adventures of Sinbad and a walk along its bustling promenade after lunch offers up a little reminder of its lively waterfront heritage.

Our morning begins with a visit to the ancient Mesopotamian town of Al-Qurnah, believed by many to be the fabled site of the Garden of Eden and a place that still holds a deep significance in the legends and history of Iraq. From here we then head by boat into the heart of the Iraqi Marshlands, one of the world’s largest ecosystems which have undergone a recovery after being drained to just 10% of their size, we will enjoy lunch of a local speciality of grilled fish with one of the local Marsh Arab families. This afternoon we then pay a visit to the famed Ziggurat of Ur and the archaeological remains of its ancient city, thought to be the birthplace of the prophet Abraham.

An early morning departure sees us heading towards the ancient Sumerian city of Uruk, site of the earliest ever discovered written script and often referred to as ‘the first city’. From here we continue to the city of Najaf, one of the most important in the country and the revered site of the Imam Ali Shrine. A major Shia Muslim pilgrimage site, the tomb is not only a masterpiece of Islamic architecture, but also lies at the spiritual and political heart of the Shia faith. We will visit the site of the shrine today, as well as the bustling market that lies close by, both busy with locals and pilgrims.

Heading north out of the city this morning we head first for the town of Al Kifl and the shrine of the 6th century BC prophet Ezekiel, before continuing our journey on to the city of Karbala, one of the Shia faith’s holiest sites. Home to the shrine of Imam Hussein ibn Ali, grandson of the Prophet Muhammed, who was killed here in 680 AD, the city attracts over 20 million Shia pilgrims every year. Following lunch today we have the unique opportunity to join some of these pilgrims at this most revered of shrines. Ladies will need to wear an abaya while at the shrine which will be provided by the tour leader.

Continuing our journey through the cultural heartland of ancient Mesopotamia, our next stop will be the legendary city of Babylon, a pivotal centrepiece of this great kingdom from the 18th century BC. Once considered the greatest city in the world, today its ancient ruins are testament to centuries of decline and destruction, although the impressive reconstruction that Saddam Hussein has left in its place gives some idea as to the greatness that it may once have enjoyed. Before continuing on to the Iraqi capital later this afternoon we will enjoy lunch, followed by a visit to the ancient royal capital of Ctesiphon, home to the famed vault of Taq Karsa, one of the largest single-span vaults of unreinforced brickwork in the world. This historical site offers a glimpse into the grandeur and architectural prowess of ancient Persia. Baghdad has a surprisingly vibrant dining scene and we will head out to one of the restaurants this evening.

Founded as the capital of the Abbasid Caliphate in 762AD, Baghdad can boast one of the finest repositories of ancient artefacts anywhere on the planet. Today we pay a visit to this remarkable site, the Archaeological Museum of Iraq. This will be followed by a chance to sample some of Baghdad’s famed sandwiches, before an afternoon visit to Al-Mutanabi Street to visit a local teahouse and a copper market. Concluding our cultural tour with a visit to the historical Madrassah of the El-Mustansariya School, this evening we then head back out into the city to enjoy some delicious local cuisine and some vibrant Baghdad street-life.

Some 400 kilometres to the north of Baghdad lies the city of Mosul, nestling at the heart of a region rich in ethnic and religious diversity. Our journey takes us by way of Samarra, where we stop to visit the distinctive 9th century Malwiya Mosque, with its spiral minaret. A UNESCO Heritage Site, the mosque, built by the Abbasid Caliph Al-Mutawakkil, stands not only as an architectural marvel, but was once a place of great religious and cultural significance during the Abbasid Caliphate. After a brief visit to Samarra’s Qasr Al Ashiq (Love Palace), we then continue on to Mosul, where we spend this evening.

Iraq’s Kurdish region is renowned for its distinct cultural identity and enjoys a reputation as more liberal minded than some of the more conservative parts of the country. Departing Mosul this morning we drive up into the sacred Lalish Valley, located amongst the Nineveh Plains of northern Iraq. Here we will find a temple setting that is the holiest site in the Yazidi faith; a site where we will have an opportunity to meet and mix with the local Yazidi people and learn more of their culture and faith firsthand. Stopping for lunch near Lalish, this afternoon we then continue on into the Dohuk Governorate, situated close to the Turkish border.

Following a traditional Kurdish breakfast at a local cafe we set off this morning for the stunningly located setting of Amedi, often referred to as ‘the city in the sky’. An old Jewish settlement, renowned for its beautifully preserved architecture and distinctive cliffside houses, Amedi provides us with a captivating blend of Kurdish history and majestic views. After enjoying a cuppa at the only remaining teahouse left in the city, we then continue on to the village of Rezan, famed for its delectable fish cuisine. Our final visit of the day is to the Shanidar Cave, site of several significant Neanderthal discoveries over the years, the cave is located on a hill with 300 steps to the top, the walk takes around 30 minutes.

A scenic drive this morning takes us past one of the largest canyons in the Middle East and on to the city of Rawanduz, close to both the Turkish and Iranian borders. From here it is just a short drive on to the serene beauty of the Bekhal Waterfall, after which we take a trip back in time to walk along parts of the old Hamilton Road. Built during the British occupation of the region in the 1930s, this once important transportation link facilitated trade and travel across the rugged northern Iraqi landscapes. Our day ends in Erbil, where we spend the next two nights.

A city that can realistically trace its human settlement back to the 5th millennium BC, Erbil’s historic heart houses the spectacular setting of Erbil Citadel, a UNESCO World Heritage Site whose ancient walls have witnessed the rise and fall of Assyrians, Babylonians, Persians and Ottomans. A visit to the fortress this morning will be followed after lunch by a leisurely stroll through the bustling Qaysari Bazaar, the perfect place to pick up some local colour and some traditional mementos. Dinner this evening will be hosted by a local Kurdish family, presenting us with some unforgettable memories of a quite extraordinary adventure.

The tour ends this morning after breakfast.